Beading Tutorial: Basic Right Angle Weave

One of the most versatile and useful bead weaving stitches ever created is right angle weave. Developed by David Chatt, it is a single needle variation of cross-weave. Using a figure eight stitching pattern, groups of beads are gathered together to form shared rows that can be increased and embellished in every direction with ease. The unique shape of a basic right angle weave unit allows for endless possibilities in three-dimensional beadwork.

The simplest form of RAW is the four bead unit, stitched in flat rows. This technique is great for bracelets and rings, but can also be adapted to make 3-D objects, beaded beads and more.

To make a basic strip of flat right angle weave:

On a comfortable length of thread, use a stop bead to mark a six inch tail. This is optional, but helps to keep the first few stitches steady as you work.

Pick up 4 seed beads, and slide them down the thread, just before the stop bead.

Pass back through the first 3 beads again, and pull tight to form a cluster. If you’re working with size 8/0 beads or larger, you may want to weave through the entire unit once more before resuming, to lock the cluster in place.

Pick up 3 seed beads. Stitch through the same bead that your thread is exiting from the first step, following the path of the thread. Pull tight, and pass through the first two beads just picked up again. While working the first two rows, your RAW units might not look perfectly snug - don’t worry. As new rows are added, the beadwork will straighten. Try to maintain even tension as you work.

Your working thread should now be parallel with your stop bead. Two bead colors are used here two show the difference between the horizontal and vertical beads (also called ‘up’ beads).

Pick up 3 seed beads, and stitch through the same bead that your thread is exiting. Pull tight, and pass through the first two beads just picked up. Repeat this motion until the row reaches the desired width. Notice the figure eight pattern - the thread path alternates up and down with each new cluster, much like ladder stitch.

Weave through the final RAW cluster in the row until you are exiting the top ‘up’ bead in this unit. Pick up 3 beads, and pass through the same bead that your thread is exiting. Stitch through the first bead just picked up.

Pick up 2 seed beads, and stitch through the next ‘up’ bead from the previous row, and the bead that your thread is exiting. Pull tight, and weave through the unit to exit the next up bead from the previous row.

As you work, remember that each row you add is still made up of 4 bead units, but some of the beads will be shared with previous ones. Your thread will move in a continuous figure eight pattern.

Continue adding 2 beads at a time until you reach the end of the row. Weave around the last unit added and exit from the first ‘up’ bead to start the new row.

Although the technique is simple, it can be tricky to learn at first. The number of units in the first row will determine the direction that your thread moves for all subsequent rows. After you’ve used right angle weave a few times, it becomes second nature. When you’re first learning, it’s a good idea to look over each row before beginning a new one, to check for missed stitches and out of place beads.

Right angle weave is incredibly adaptable, and almost evolves on it’s own once you have it in your repertoire. I really became attached to it after creating my first RAW chain links.

To make my “Time Warp” link necklace, I made multicolored strips of flat right angle weave, and stitched the ends together to form a ring. Folding the edges together and zipping them up creates a seamless loop with a sturdy shape. This technique eventually evolved into bangle bracelets.

Where will right angle weave take you?

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