Sunday, December 6, 2015

Work in Progress: Earring Experiment

My bead tray is a bit of a mess right now as I jump from one project to the next. I disassembled the components from the diagonal SuperDuo tutorial, but I haven’t yet sorted or put them away. This week I’m working on a few new tutorial prototypes, including a fringed earring design with a little herringbone twist. I’m far too excited about this project to stop and clean up! So far the design is going exactly as planned, so I should be able to get the step by steps soon.

Earring Experiment in Progress


Meanwhile, I’m cooking up some ideas for a new necklace line that I think is going to be really great. It’s been awhile since I’ve added a totally new design to my shop, so I’m looking forward to testing out my idea. I saw a very interesting charm necklace on a fellow shopper the other day, and I think that it can be greatly improved with the right combination of beads. The best part is that if it works, I’ll be able to combine lots of my favorite accents with ease. Can’t wait to try it out!

What are you working on this week?

Mortira

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Saturday, December 5, 2015

Beading Thread Brand Comparison

There are many different types of beading threads available, and each of us has our favorites. Just like seed bead brands, every brand of beading thread has its own unique qualities that can affect not just the beadwork itself, but also how we work with it. I wanted to experiment with a variety of threads to see just how different they are. The comparison would not be a competition to see which brand is best, but an overview of all their qualities. To keep it simple, we are comparing two types of braided line, and two types of nylon/upholstery thread.

Beading Thread Brand Comparison


Unlike the seed bead comparison that we did awhile back, I included prices in these comparisons. The price gaps between thread brands is quite a bit larger than those within bead brands, so I think it’s worth noting. To make this comparison, I looked at the single item (non-discounted) price of the largest and smallest spools available – from Fire Mountain Gems and Beads for all but WildFire – and calculated the price per yard from each spool.

Beading Thread Experiment


This experiment isn’t exactly scientific. I did not cut a particular length of thread or set aside a particular amount of beads to work with. The overall look of the beadwork and the features of the threads themselves are the main focus. I took a bit of each thread and worked a small strip of beadwork with it. This time around I went with flat herringbone weave. I wanted a flat stitch that would showcase different qualities easily, and whose overall look wouldn’t be affected much by the beads themselves. For each swatch I used the same color – transparent emerald.

Nymo

Price: $0.03-$0.02 per yard
Colors: Black, white, brown, blue, red, yellow, green (varying shades)

Comparing Nymo Beading Thread


Probably the most common thread used by beaders, Nymo is a nylon thread that got its start in furniture upholstery. It usually comes on smaller spools or bobbins, and is available in a variety of sizes. I worked with Size D Nymo in three colors: black, white, and shoe red.

It’s very easy to see in the photos just how much thread color affects the look of the transparent beads. Although the color of the shoe red does get masked a bit, the shade of the seed beads is definitely different compared to the beadwork done with white Nymo.


I waxed both the white and red threads, but left the black untreated (all 3 were stretched). The lack of wax didn’t change the beadwork much, but it did make the thread a little trickier to work with. Nymo is very limp and slippery, so a coating of beeswax helps to prevent the thread from slipping off the needle while working, and makes it easier to grip tail threads when starting a new piece. In theory, a bit of wax can also help prevent fraying of the beadwork over time.


This type of thread is very prone to fraying, particularly at the ends, making it a little difficult to thread a needle. Nymo is also very soft, and doesn’t change shape much. You can see that there are almost no kink marks in the working thread from where it was folded over the needle. This quality also makes for incredibly flexible beadwork – it folds over easily without breaking or becoming misshapen.

Fireline

Price: $0.23 per yard
Colors: Smoke (gray), Crystal (translucent white), green, chartreuse, red, orange, pink

Comparing Fireline Beading Thread


Fireline is another popular beading thread that began as something different - it is also a very popular fishing line. Fireline is made from a fused nylon-Dyneema blend. It comes in very small diameters, giving it the look of thread, but is incredibly strong. I worked with 6lb test (Size D) Fireline in two colors: smoke and crystal.

Because neither of the common Fireline colors is very stark, there isn’t a lot of difference in the beadwork colors. The color of either thread is most noticeable between the beads, so it’s important to consider the type of stitch as well as bead color when choosing which type of Fireline to use.


Fireline is the thinnest of all the threads that I worked with in this experiment, so it is great for beadwork requiring lots of thread passes. It has a very plastic-y texture and kinks readily. This also means that it holds the shape of the beadwork it is used in, making it very sturdy, but also a bit inflexible. Fireline is more suitable for weaving, but doesn’t work quite as well in fringes.


Although Fireline doesn’t fray – I haven’t seen a strand actually unravel in seven years of beading – it can be tricky to cut without good tools. Dull cutting tools or a lack of tension when cutting can mangle the ends of the thread, and even cause burrs to form that are impossible to thread through a needle.

C-Lon

Price: $0.02 per yard
Colors: Black, white, brown, blue, green, red (varying shades)

Comparing C-Lon Beading Thread


Another nylon thread that is great for beadweaving, C-Lon is similar to Nymo in many ways. It comes in several sizes, including heavier weights for stringing, and is wound on a tube like cotton cord. I worked with size AA C-Lon in chartreuse, and size D in light blue.


Even though the two shades of C-Lon that I had to work with were very similar in shade and tone, you can still see a bit of an effect within the beadwork for each color. I left the size D thread unwaxed, and once again there was not much a difference apart from workability. The ends frayed a bit more with the unwaxed thread, which may have been helped along by how much bigger it is for passing through a tiny needle eye.


The C-Lon required a lot less stretching than the Nymo, which always feels a bit springy no matter how much it is stretched. Though the overall texture of the threads is almost identical, there is a noticeable difference in the sizes between these two nylon brands. Although the size D C-Lon seems enormous compared to all of the other threads, when weaving it did not seem bulky or cumbersome; it would likely be suitable for all but the most thread-heavy stitches, as well as all types of fringe.


WildFire

Price: $0.15 per yard
Colors: White, black, green

Comparing WildFire Beading Thread


WildFire is a bonded synthetic thread similar in many ways to Fireline, and was definitely the most surprising thread in this experiment for me. As a die-hard Fireline fan, I have always been reluctant to try WildFire, particularly because it is only sold in small quantities at most stores. I used 12lb test WildFire in black.

The most noticeable thing about WildFire is the intensity of its jet black color. Unlike Fireline, this color does not rub off while you’re working, leaving a gray residue on hands and even beads. The effect that it has on the transparent beads is definitely visible.


WildFire doesn’t need to be stretched or waxed, but because it has a very smooth, thread-like texture it would benefit from waxing much more than Fireline. This line is a little less stiff, and doesn’t kink quite as much as Fireline, but it still has the same sturdiness that creates less flexible beadwork. WildFire is also very easy to cut, and doesn’t fray.


The biggest downside to this thread brand, apart from the lack of spool size options, is the excessive packaging. The larger 250 yard Fireline spools can be re-filled and even recycled at sporting goods stores, but WildFire comes with a spool cover that keeps the thread from unwinding. This extra plastic, along with the hang-tab at the top of the spool, is really unnecessary and is a big reason why I don’t plan to switch.

In conclusion: My personal thread preference hasn’t changed, although it was nice to work so closely with each thread all at once to really get a feel for what they can do and how they do it. Like any material, getting familiar with a particular thread really improves the results that you get with it.

Beading Thread Brand Differences


Do you have a favorite thread brand? What makes it ideal for your designs?

Mortira

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Friday, December 4, 2015

Tutorial: Holiday Candy Cane Bangle Project

Holiday Candy Cane Bangle Tutorial

One of the best things about dressing for the holidays is getting the chance to wear kitschy things like ugly Christmas sweaters and incredibly literal jewelry. Though there’s something sort of wonderful about Christmas light earrings and charm bracelets – especially ones that light up – edible inspirations have to be the best. Luckily for beadweavers, there are a lot of stitches and bead shapes the lend themselves well to food themes, especially for the holidays.

This easy to make bangle puts seed beads and herringbone stitch to good use recreating the look of a tasty candy cane. All you need are size 11 seed beads in opaque white and transparent red or green, plus some thread and a clasp of your choice. Although you can use basic twisted tubular herringbone to make this bangle, we’re going to use a variation that creates an even tighter spiral for the classic candy cane stripe look.

Another advantage of this super twisted stitch is that it makes the rope much sturdier, allowing us to add multiple rows of color without losing the tubular shape when the bracelet is brought into a curve. If you want to add even more stability, you could string your herringbone tube over a core of beads or rubber tubing, and add a clasp with crimps. For added strength, I highly recommend weaving this bracelet with Fireline or another braided beading line.


1. On a comfortable length of beading thread, pick up 4 white seed beads. Slide them down to the end, leaving a 10 inch tail. Stitch up through the first 2 seed beads again, and pull snug to form a ladder. Pass down through the second pair of beads.


2. Pick up 2 red seed beads and stitch down through the same 2 white beads again – moving in the same direction as the thread. Pull snug, and stitch up through the 2 red beads. Continue weaving with ladder stitch, adding 2 beads at a time until you have a strip that is 10 beads wide, with the pattern shown.


3. Bring the ends of the ladder together and stitch the first and last rows together twice. Exit from the nearest red row at top of the ring, opposite from the tail thread.


4. Pick up 1 red and 1 white seed bead. Stitch down through the topmost white bead in the ladder below, and pull snug to bring the new beads in place along the ring. Stitch up through the topmost white bead in the next row.


5. Continue adding 2 beads at a time around the ring, matching them to the rows below until you have added 5 pairs total. To step up for the next round, stitch up through the top 2 red beads in the next row and exit from the top of the ring.


6. Repeat step 4 and 5 to add another round of tubular herringbone, but this time, stitch up through 3 beads to step up.


7. Add the first 2 beads of the new round as usual, but stitch up through the top 2 beads of the next row to exit the ring, instead of just one. Continue around the ring, stitch up through 2 beads in each stitch, and stepping up through 3 at the end.

8. Continue weaving with twisted herringbone until your rope is about 1 inch short of the desired length. Be sure to test the fit, as thicker ropes will fit a little bit differently than more flexible bracelets.


9. To close the final stitches and match both end of the beadwork, you’ll need to do a dummy stitch. Work one row of twisted herringbone without picking up any beads, stitching up through 2 beads at a time. Work a second row without any new beads, stitching up through 1 bead in each row. (Look carefully at the beadwork, and follow the natural thread path until all of the beads have the same connections.) Finally, work a round of ladder stitch in the opposite direction, moving 2 beads at a time, to flatten the edge of the rope.


10. Once you’ve woven in all of your tail threads, you can finish your bracelet as desired. My favorite technique is the crown picot finish for herringbone tubes. You could also string the bangle on stretch cord with a focal between the ends for a true bangle look.

Herringbone Candy Cane Bangle Project


Happy holidays!

Mortira

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Wednesday, December 2, 2015

December Bead Stash Favorites

December is always a very hectic month, and I can usually tell when things are getting to that tipping point when I start to prefer easy and familiar things. I usually re-read favorite books, as they’re a much better escape than something new. In my workspace, I crave familiar materials and techniques. This month, I’m looking at some old favorites and a few standbys.

Lately I’ve really been in the mood for bezels, and I’ve been thinking of my stash of glass nuggets a lot. It’s been many years since I’ve used these in a project, and I haven’t even considered them for some time. I can’t say why, but I’m really looking forward to coming up with a project for using some of these little baubles – perhaps for a geek inspiration piece.

Glass Nugget Cabochon Mix


Drops and daggers are always a staple in my bead stash, and right now I’ve got my eye on some chunky cobalt blue briolette shapes that I have yet to cut into. They’re a little bit too big for most of the projects that I like, so I haven’t been able to come up with an appropriate design for them just yet. I’m thinking that they might be perfect for my next fringe experiment.

Cobalt Blue Glass Drops


Also from my stash of drops, these SuperUnos have been calling to me lately. I’ve been working on a few different design ideas featuring two-hole beads, but these single-holed variations are always so appealing. I love the pinched shape of the SuperUnos, and the Picasso finish on both of these colors is very inspiring. I’m hoping to use them for an extra bit of texture in some upcoming projects.

Picasso SuperUno Drops


What kinds of materials are you favoring right now?

Mortira

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Tuesday, December 1, 2015

Work in Progress: Strange Cuff

My bead tray looks a little crowded this week as I juggle one ongoing project and get ready to put the finishing touches on my next geek-inspired piece. The swatch of culled-bead RAW is coming along very nicely, although I’m a little worried about the curve that it seems to be developing. It probably won’t matter much, considering what I plan to create with it once all of the rows are complete, but still. It’s hard to shake the desire for a perfectly proportioned piece of beadwork.

Wavy Beadwork in Progress


The new cuff I’m working on is also a little unusual. The combination of Czech and Japanese seed beads is giving it a nice wave. This design is a bit of a variation on the Earth Mother Cuff from Ancient Worlds Modern Beads. It will probably use up all of my garnet Picasso fringe beads, and a good portion of the coconut chips that I’ve been wanting to use for ages.

What are you making right now?

Mortira

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